Coat.



PATENTED DEC. 3, 1903..

I E. SMITH.

GOAT.

APPLICATION 311.21) mm. 4, 1903.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

no MODEL.

- woe/0X52 v attol'uuq UNITED STATES PATENT D ries.

Patented i 'cmloer 8, 1903.

WILLIAM E. SMITH, OF BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA.

coAT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 746,185, dated December 8, 1903. Application filed August 4, 1903. Serial No. 168,214. (No model-l To whom it may concern:

Be it known that LWILLIAM E. SMITH, a citizen of the United States, residing at No. 1213Huntsville avenue, Birmingham, in the county of Jefferson and State of Alabama, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Coats, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of mens clothing, being more particularly applied to a 'novel and im proved methodof cutting and making garments known as full box-coats.

It is the object of my invention to provide these coats with side body-pieces in which the armholes are formed and to which the sleeves are directly attached. The front and back sections on each side are sewed to the side body in a continuousseam from front to back of the coat over the shoulder, the seams being formed with wide overlapping edges and vented over the armholes to give an easy set to the shoulders and in front to provide concealed pocket-openings. As applied to the manufacture of overcoats and heavy garments the open vent over the shoulder is not necessary, in which case the shoulder portion of the front and back sections will be connected to the side body or to the sleeve over the top of the shoulder.

My invention comprises these and other advantages hereinafter more fully set forth and described, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, in which- Figure 1 is a front View of the coat as it will appear when worn. Fig. 2 is a back view of the coat. Fig. 3 is a side view thereof, and Fig. 4 is a similar view showing more clearly the overlap side seam and the method of forming the pockets. Fig. 5 is aside view illustrating more clearly the construction of the side body and the overlapping seam vented over the shoulder. Fig. 6 is a detail view of the side body, showing the manner of attaching the sleeve to the armhole, formed by connecting its two flaps over the shoulder. Fig. 7 shows in plan the several parts of the body of the coat ready to be assembled.

In the drawings the same reference-letters refer to the same parts throughout.

The style of coats to which my invention,

manufactured according to the present systems of cutting the'front and back sections are joined at the shoulder and beneath the arm by the side seam, and the sleeves aresewed directly to these sections, which form the armhole-opening.

It is the object of my invention to depart radically from the usual method of cutting and fitting coats and setting in the sleeves. Thus I provide a side body-piece A, provided with two flaps B and G at its upper end, which are joined together attheir ends to form the armhole and sewed to the inside canvas or the shoulder. The sleeve D may be sewed to this body-piece and not to the front and back sections, as is usual. The principal objectof these flaps is to extend the point of connection between the front'and back sections and the sleeves or sleeve-bearing portion to each side of the armholes,rso that theside seams can lead straight up thesides of the front and back and over the shoulder. Therefore these flaps may be shortened so that they ex-' tend only to the points where they meet the side seams, thus forming the major portion of the armholes, which in this case will be completed by the shoulder sections thumselves.

The front sections E are cut comparatively narrow, so that they form what is strictly the front of the coat, and are joined to the back- F by the shoulder-seams G. These parts are joined to the side body-pieces, to which the sleeves have already been sewed, by continuous seams H, leading up the sides of the front,

over the shoulders, and down the back. It

will be noted that these seams maybe vented over the shoulders, so that the front and back sections, which are not connected directly to the sleeves, will be only attached to the side 9 vented seam, which will be open-vented for the pocket-opening and also for the shoul-- der-opening when the same is used. Seamsof this character will accentuate the boxfront feature, increasing the coats symmetry and apparent breadth of shoulder and will also at the same time serve to conceal the openings for the front pockets I, formed as vents in said seams. In this manner the customary slanting or horizontal pocket-openings of flaps are dispensed with, and by placing the pockets farther in front they will have less tendency to throw the coat out of shape by pulling it to the side. The shoulder-seams G and. the sleeve-seams are also of the overlapping type and are preferably arranged in alinement to give the appearance of a continuous seam from collar to cuff.

By providing the coat with front and back sections made distinct from the side body and falling straight from the shoulders I secure a novel and attractive effect both front and back, while simplifying the manufacture of the coat and the ease with which the proper hang is given it.

When the back is made in two parts, they will preferably be joined together in an inverted boX-plait to carry out the overlapping seam effect throughout the suit.

I do not desire to limit my invention to boxcoats, since it may be applied with equal advantage in the manufacture of other styles of mens coats or similar garments.

Having thus described my invention, What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a coat, the combination of front and back sections connected at the shoulders, with side body-sections formed with armhole-openings to which the sleeves are attached independently of said other sections.

2. In a coat, the combination of side bodysections to which the sleeves are attached, and front and back sections joined together over the shoulder and connected to said side bodysections by continuous seams vented over the shoulder.

3. In a coat, side body-sections, front and back sections connected at the shoulders and attached to said side body-sections by con tinuous seams leading up each side of the front and back and over the shoulders.

at. In a coat, the combination of side bodysections to which sleeves are secured, front sections and a back which are connected to each other at the shoulders and to said side sections by continuous vented seams from front to back over the shoulders.

5. Ina coat, the combination of side bodysections, front and back sections connected to said side body sections by continuous seams leading up the sides of the front, over the shoulders and down the back, and provided with vents forming front pocket-openlugs.

6. In a coat, front and back sections, a side body-section connected to the front and back sections, and having at its upper end flaps which are connected at their ends to form the armhole.

7. In a garment of the character described, the combination of front and back sections connected at the shoulder, side body-sections and sleeves connected at the armhole, and seams, connecting said side body-sections and sleeves to said front and back sections, which lead in a continuous substantially straight line from front to back over the shoulders.

8. In a garment of the character described,

the combination of front, back, and side bodysaid side body-sections as they lead down 0 each side of the back.

In testimony whereof I aifix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WILLIAM E. SMITH.

Witnesses:

E. SCHNEIDER, W. A. LESTER. 

